Derse Dreamer Scarf (for tapestry crochet, knitting, and cross-stitch)

Here is the stitch diagram for the Derse Dreamer scarf. Every unit is a single crochet. Keep in mind that since this is asymmetrical, if you are using this for tapestry crochet or knitting you can't read every line from left to right, you need to alternate. I've included arrows to help you figure out which way to read each line.

Start with a chain of 31 and sc in the 2nd chain from hook and then across (each line is 30 sts). I recommend doing maybe 5 or so rows of sc before you start in on the chart. 

Prospit Dreamer Scarf (for tapestry crochet, knitting, and cross-stitch)

That's right, I am posting a pattern before I even finish the product. Deal with it. Actually, the reason I do this is because the scarf is mainly just simple rows of single crochets, the only thing that requires instructions is the design, which is completed.

I couldn't do Tunisian crochet for this design because either it doesn't work or I just couldn't figure it out. I've only known how to do Tunisian for like a week. One thing I do know, however, is how tapestry crochet works. If you don't, use this helpful tutorial. If you still have questions I would be happy to answer them in the comments section. Now, you may be asking, why is this just called the Prospit scarf? Isn't Derse just the same thing only purple?

No.

I'm doing a completely different design when I get to Derse, which you should expect within a week I hope. The moon will be the same but I was thinking curlicue's instead of the chevron I did with Prospit. I used the shirts from whatpumpkin for inspiration if that helps you see where I am going with this.

Here is the chart, which, incredibly enough, can also be used by knitters or cross-stitchers because stitch charts are just magic that way. Start with a chain of 31 and make your first sc in the second chain from the hook.

An important thing to remember is that this design is NOT symmetrical and is also not worked in the round. This means you can't just read each row left to right like your instincts will tell you because your design will look like a glitchy piece of shit. I know because when I first started making this design I made that same mistake a few times. I have included helpful arrows in the chart so that you don't fuck up like I did. If you knit or cross-stitch you can ignore the arrows. Probably. I think.

I crocheted 5 rows of single crochet in dark yellow before I started on the row where the light yellow begins. I also carried the light yellow right from row one (like the tutorial suggests) so that my gauge stayed nice and even throughout. But seeing as it's your scarf you can do whatever you think looks better.

If anyone is wondering how I made the chart, Microsoft Excel has a graph paper feature and it's pretty handy.

Here's a photo of what it looks like when you've crocheted it (Notice that I made a few small mistakes where I accidentally let the yarn I was carrying peep out a little. Keeping that hidden yarn super taught will make this not happen.)

Winterstuck Serkets

I posted this to my other crochet blog, but someone on tumblr mentioned that this pattern would be perfect for making scarves for Serket cosplays (winterstuck Serkets oh gosh). And if you used them to make a shawl you could be momma spider too. Just a thought. Here you go my lovely Serket cosplayers:

ZAHHAK HAT WITH HORNS

Click here for the hat pattern

This pattern is worked in the round so have a stitch marker handy

Broken Horn *made in 2 parts

 Part one-
with red ch 36
Rows 1-5: sc around (36 st)
switch to orange
Rows 6-8: sc around (36 st)
Row 9: sc in next st, *ch 3, sl st in same st, sl st in next st, repeat from * around

Part Two-
with orange, ch 2
Row 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)
Row 3: 1 sc in 1st st, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, repeat from *
Row 4: *1 sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, repeat from *
Stitch disc into broken horn piece to close it, stuff and sew onto hat

Normal Horn *made in 3 parts

Part One-
with red, ch 36
Rows 1-5: sc around (36 st)
Switch to orange
Rows 6-11: sc around (36 st)
Switch to yellow
Rows 12-14: sc around (36 st)

Part Two-
with yellow, ch 2
Row 1: make 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 st)
Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)
Row 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (18 st)
Row 4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (24 st)
Row 5: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (30 st)
Row 6: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (36 st)
Sew disc onto tube to close it (2 rows should hang over the edge)

Part Three-
with yellow, ch 36
Row 1: sc around (36 st)
Row 2: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, 17 sc (34 st)
Row 3: skip 1 st, 16 sc, skip 1 st, 16 sc (32 st)
Row 4: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, 15 sc (30 st)
Row 5: skip 1 st, 14 sc, skip 1 st, 14 sc (28 st)
Row 6: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, 13 sc (26 st)
Row 7: skip 1 st, 12 sc, skip 1 st, 12 sc (24 st)
Row 8: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, 11 sc (22 st)
Row 9: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, 10 sc (20 st)
Row 10: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, 9 sc (18 st)
Row 11: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, 8 sc (16 st)
Row 12: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, 7 sc (14 st)
Row 13: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, 6 sc (12 st)
Row 14: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)
Row 15: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, 4 sc (8 st)
Row 16: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, 3 sc (6 st)
draw closed, stuff and sew onto the disc. Stuff the tube part and sew onto hat

Symbol: ch 10 for stem of arrow, 15 for the point, and 5 for the cross