Derse Dreamer Scarf (for tapestry crochet, knitting, and cross-stitch)

Here is the stitch diagram for the Derse Dreamer scarf. Every unit is a single crochet. Keep in mind that since this is asymmetrical, if you are using this for tapestry crochet or knitting you can't read every line from left to right, you need to alternate. I've included arrows to help you figure out which way to read each line.

Start with a chain of 31 and sc in the 2nd chain from hook and then across (each line is 30 sts). I recommend doing maybe 5 or so rows of sc before you start in on the chart. 

Prospit Dreamer Scarf (for tapestry crochet, knitting, and cross-stitch)

That's right, I am posting a pattern before I even finish the product. Deal with it. Actually, the reason I do this is because the scarf is mainly just simple rows of single crochets, the only thing that requires instructions is the design, which is completed.

I couldn't do Tunisian crochet for this design because either it doesn't work or I just couldn't figure it out. I've only known how to do Tunisian for like a week. One thing I do know, however, is how tapestry crochet works. If you don't, use this helpful tutorial. If you still have questions I would be happy to answer them in the comments section. Now, you may be asking, why is this just called the Prospit scarf? Isn't Derse just the same thing only purple?

No.

I'm doing a completely different design when I get to Derse, which you should expect within a week I hope. The moon will be the same but I was thinking curlicue's instead of the chevron I did with Prospit. I used the shirts from whatpumpkin for inspiration if that helps you see where I am going with this.

Here is the chart, which, incredibly enough, can also be used by knitters or cross-stitchers because stitch charts are just magic that way. Start with a chain of 31 and make your first sc in the second chain from the hook.

An important thing to remember is that this design is NOT symmetrical and is also not worked in the round. This means you can't just read each row left to right like your instincts will tell you because your design will look like a glitchy piece of shit. I know because when I first started making this design I made that same mistake a few times. I have included helpful arrows in the chart so that you don't fuck up like I did. If you knit or cross-stitch you can ignore the arrows. Probably. I think.

I crocheted 5 rows of single crochet in dark yellow before I started on the row where the light yellow begins. I also carried the light yellow right from row one (like the tutorial suggests) so that my gauge stayed nice and even throughout. But seeing as it's your scarf you can do whatever you think looks better.

If anyone is wondering how I made the chart, Microsoft Excel has a graph paper feature and it's pretty handy.

Here's a photo of what it looks like when you've crocheted it (Notice that I made a few small mistakes where I accidentally let the yarn I was carrying peep out a little. Keeping that hidden yarn super taught will make this not happen.)

Upcoming!

As you know, I have been wanting to make Derse and Prospit dreamer scarves, as well as aspect scarves, but I am very unsatisfied with the way that tapestry crochet looks. I believe that I have found a way to incorporate symbols using Tunisian crochet, in which the scarf will look decent from both the back and the front. I hope. I'll be doing some experimenting but if it doesn't work out I will move back to tapestry style and try to find a way to make cleaner designs.

When all 12 aspects, Prospit, Derse, and a hemospectrum scarf have been completed I will hold a giveaway which will take place both here and on tumblr. One grand prize winner will receive an aspect scarf, one of the dreamer scarves, and the hemospectrum scarf. The second place winner will receive an aspect scarf and the remaining dreamer scarf. 10 runners up will receive an aspect scarf. Here's how the winner will be chosen:

I will divide the contestants into 12 groups, based on aspect (I will collect aspect and dreamer preferences for each contestant). From those 12 groups I will choose 2 winners each, one from Prospit and one from Derse. This brings the contestant pool down to 24. Then, for each of the groups I will flip a coin and one winner from each pair will be chosen. The 12 the come out on top in the coin toss will automatically receive an aspect scarf. From the 12 aspect winners, I will make two groups: one Prospit and one Derse. If I'm lucky it will be an even split but most likely not. I will randomly select one winner from each other groups, and these two will receive a dreamer scarf. Finally, I will set the two dreamer winners against each other in a coin toss. Winner of the toss will receive the hemospectrum scarf. It's like a fucked up tournament of sorts???

It makes sense in my head.

Anyway, I will be posting the patterns for these scarves as I make them and the giveaway will take place when they are done. Last time I did a giveaway it was with the hats and I picked winners before I even made any of them and they took me over a year to complete and the last one didn't get sent because the winner remade their tumblr and I couldn't find them so they could give me an address. This time it will be done properly. The scarf thing is very complicated and I have an intense credit load this semester but I promise I will be slowly but surely working on this.

OOOOOOOH. Maybe I could add Cherub scarves to the mix and make this interesting? The algorithm won't change, but maybe I will pick two runners up that didn't win aspect scarves and give the Cherubs to them? Just a thought.

I will also work on the zodiac designs for scarves but that might have to wait for a second giveawat. Maybe I'll lump the cherubs in with that one.

NEWS

I have emerged from my long slumber and realized that this blog has been neglected!

So here's the deal, I'm coming back. I'm not sure how long it will take me to get the first project up because I have a lot of non-Homestuck related crochet projects to work on, but here is what you can expect:

-a rewrite of all the horrible horns I made including Serket, Maryam, Ampora, and I'm sure there are others if I look
-More god tier patches
-Captchalogue bags
-scarves???
-amigurumi
-blankets maybe?!?!?
-coffee cozies

The point is that you have not been abandoned and I will try to work on this blog as well as my Crochet Wizard blog. Thanks to all those who have been checking back here for updates, hopefully I'll have something soon!

Winterstuck Serkets

I posted this to my other crochet blog, but someone on tumblr mentioned that this pattern would be perfect for making scarves for Serket cosplays (winterstuck Serkets oh gosh). And if you used them to make a shawl you could be momma spider too. Just a thought. Here you go my lovely Serket cosplayers:

ZAHHAK HAT WITH HORNS

Click here for the hat pattern

This pattern is worked in the round so have a stitch marker handy

Broken Horn *made in 2 parts

 Part one-
with red ch 36
Rows 1-5: sc around (36 st)
switch to orange
Rows 6-8: sc around (36 st)
Row 9: sc in next st, *ch 3, sl st in same st, sl st in next st, repeat from * around

Part Two-
with orange, ch 2
Row 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)
Row 3: 1 sc in 1st st, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, repeat from *
Row 4: *1 sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, repeat from *
Stitch disc into broken horn piece to close it, stuff and sew onto hat

Normal Horn *made in 3 parts

Part One-
with red, ch 36
Rows 1-5: sc around (36 st)
Switch to orange
Rows 6-11: sc around (36 st)
Switch to yellow
Rows 12-14: sc around (36 st)

Part Two-
with yellow, ch 2
Row 1: make 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 st)
Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)
Row 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (18 st)
Row 4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (24 st)
Row 5: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (30 st)
Row 6: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (36 st)
Sew disc onto tube to close it (2 rows should hang over the edge)

Part Three-
with yellow, ch 36
Row 1: sc around (36 st)
Row 2: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, 17 sc (34 st)
Row 3: skip 1 st, 16 sc, skip 1 st, 16 sc (32 st)
Row 4: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, 15 sc (30 st)
Row 5: skip 1 st, 14 sc, skip 1 st, 14 sc (28 st)
Row 6: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, 13 sc (26 st)
Row 7: skip 1 st, 12 sc, skip 1 st, 12 sc (24 st)
Row 8: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, 11 sc (22 st)
Row 9: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, 10 sc (20 st)
Row 10: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, 9 sc (18 st)
Row 11: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, 8 sc (16 st)
Row 12: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, 7 sc (14 st)
Row 13: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, 6 sc (12 st)
Row 14: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)
Row 15: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, 4 sc (8 st)
Row 16: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, 3 sc (6 st)
draw closed, stuff and sew onto the disc. Stuff the tube part and sew onto hat

Symbol: ch 10 for stem of arrow, 15 for the point, and 5 for the cross

PYROPE HAT WITH HORNS

Click here for the hat pattern!

This pattern is worked in the round so get a stitch marker, like a bobby pin!

with red, chain 24

Row 1: sc in each st around (24 st)

Row 2: skip 1 st, sc in next 11 st, skip 1 st, sc in next 11 st (22 st)

Row 3: sc in each st around (22 st)

Row 4: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, 10 sc (20 st)

Row 5: sc around (20 st)

SWITCH TO ORANGE

Row 6: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, 9 sc (18 st)

Row 7: sc around (18 st)

Row 8: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, 8 sc (16 st)

Row 9: sc around (16 st)

Row 10: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, 7 sc (14 st)

Row 11: sc around (14 st)

SWITCH TO YELLOW

Row 12: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, 6 sc (12 st)

Row 13: sc around (12 st)

Row 14: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)

Row 15: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, 4 sc (8 st)

Row 16: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, 3 sc (6 st)

Row 17:  skip 1 st, 2 sc, skip 1 st, 2 sc (4 st)

Row 18: sc in every other st around (2 st) 

Draw closed, stuff firmly and sew onto hat

Symbol: chain 10 for the bottom and 15 for the top

SERKET HAT WITH HORNS

Click here for the hat pattern!

(These are worked in the round so get a stitch marker like a bobby pin)

Pointy Horn 

with red, ch 24 and sl st to form a ring

Rows 1-2: sc around (24 st)

Row 3: skip 1 st, 21 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 4: skip 1 st, 19 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 5: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 6: sc around (24 st)

ATTACH ORANGE 3 ST FROM WHERE YOU TIED OFF

Row 7: sc around (24 st)

Row 8: skip 1 st, 21 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 9: skip 1 st, 19 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 10: skip 1 st 17 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 11: sc around (24 st)TURN

Row 12: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 13: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 14: sc around (24 st)

Row 15: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, 11 sc (22 st)

Row 16: sc around (22 st)

Row 17: sc in next 6 sc, skip 1 st, sc (insert stitch marker here) 18 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 18: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 19: sc around (22 st)

Row 20: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, 10 sc (20 st)

ATTACH YELLOW 6 ST FROM WHERE YOU TIED OFF (GOING AWAY FROM THE DIP THIS TIME, BACK THE WAY YOU CAME AND THEN CONTINUE CROCHETING THE WAY YOU CAME IN ROW 20)

Row 21-23: sc around (20 st)

Row 24-32: sc in next 10 st, TURN (Don’t turn on the last row)

Row 34: sc around (30 st)

At this point you should have an opening pointing away from the inward curve of the horn

Row 35: *skip 1 st, 9 sc, repeat from * around (27 st)

Row 36: *skip 1 st, 8 sc, repeat from * around (24 st)

Row 37: *skip 1 st, 5 sc, repeat from * around (20 st)

Row 38: sc in next 12 st, skip 1 st, sc (insert stitch marker here), 8 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 39: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 40: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 41: sc around (20 st)
Row 42: sc in next 4 st, TURN

Row 43: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 44: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN
Row 45: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 46: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 47: skip 1 st, 2 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 48: sc around (20 st)

Row 49: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, 9 sc (18 st)

Row 50: sc around (18 st)

Row 51: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, 8 sc (16 st)

Row 53: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, 7 sc (14 st)
Row 55: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st 6 st (12 st)

Row 57: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)

Row 59: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st 4 sc (8 st)

Row 61: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, sc (6 st)

Row 63: skip 1 st, 2 sc, skip 1 st, 2 sc (4 st) draw closed

Crescent Horn

Row 1-23: repeat rows 1-23 of the pointy horn

THIS NEXT PART IS SUPER DIFFICULT TO EXPLAIN SO READ CAREFULLY, WE ARE GOING TO BUILD A BRIDGE OVER THE OPENING

Row 24: ch 15, skip 5 st (going BACKWARDS) and sc in the 6th st, TURN

Row 25-30: sl st in the next st of the opening, turn and sc across your bridge and sl st in the next stitch of the opening, TURN

THERE SHOULD BE 5 UNTOUCHED ST ON EACH PEICE OF THE OPENING LEFT EXPOSED AND THERE SHOULD BE 2 OPENINGS ON EITHER SIDE

Row 31: sc around opening (20 st)

Row 32: sc in next 13 st, skip 1 st, sc (insert stitch marker here), sc in next 16 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 33: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 34: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 35: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 36: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 37: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN
Row 38: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 39: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 40: sc around (20 st)

Row 41: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, 9 sc (18 st)

Row 42: sc in next 12 st, skip 1 st, sc (insert stitch marker here), 14 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 43: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 44: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 45: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 46: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 47: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 48: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 49: sc around (18 st)

Row 50: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, 8 sc (16 st)
Row 51: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, 7 sc (14 st)

Row 52: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, 6 sc (12 st)

Row 53: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)

Row 54: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, 4 sc (8 st)

Row 55: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, 3 sc (6 st)

Row 56: skip 1 st, 2 sc, skip 1 st, 2 sc (4 st) draw closed and stuff the section of the crescent you just completed through the other opening

ATTACH YELLOW AT THE TOP OF THE 2ND OPENING, THE PART WHERE YOU HAD TO SC 13 TO GET TO

REPEAT ROWS 31-56

Assembly: stuff firmly and sew onto hat

Symbol: chain 10 for first line of m shape, 15 for 1st curve, 20 for last curve, and 6 for the little pointy bit

CAPTOR HAT WITH HORNS

Click here for the hat pattern!

(this pattern is worked in the round, so get a stitch marker, like a bobby pin)

OUTER:

with red, ch 24, sl st to form a ring

Row 1: sc around (24 st)

Row 2: skip1 st, 21 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 3: skip 1 st, 19 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 4: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, sc,

Row 5: sc around (24 st)

Row 6: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, 11 sc (22 st)

ATTACH ORANGE 4 ST FROM WHERE YOU TIED OFF

Row 7: skip 1 st, 19 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 8: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 9: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 10: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 11: sc around (22 st)

Row 12: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, 10 sc (20 st)

ATTACH YELLOW 2 ST (back) FROM WHERE YOU TIED OFF (in the u shape)

Row 13: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 14: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 15: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 16: sc around (20 st)

Row 17: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, 9 sc (18 st)

Row 18: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, 8 sc (16 st)

Row 19: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, 7 sc (14 st)

Row 20: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, 6 sc (12 st)

Row 21: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)

Row 22: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, 4 sc (8 st)

Row 23: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, 3 sc (6 st)

Row 24: skip 1 st, 2 sc, skip 1 st, 2 sc (4 st) DRAW CLOSED

INNER:

with red, ch 16, sl st to form ring

Row 1: sc around (16 st)

Row 2: skip 1st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 3: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, TURN

Row 4: sc around (16 st)

ATTACH ORANGE 2 ST FROM WHERE YOU TIED OFF

Row 5: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 6: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 7: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 8: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN DON’T TIE OFF

ATTACH YELLOW IN FIRST SC OF ROW 9

Row 9: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 10: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, 7 sc (14 st)

Row 11: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, 6 sc (12 st)

Row 12: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)

Row 13: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, 4 sc (8 st)

Row 14: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, 3 sc (6 st)

Row 15: skip 1 st, 2 sc, skip 1 st, 2 sc (4 st) draw closed

Assembly: stuff firms and sew onto hat

Symbol: make 2 chains of 7 and 2 chains of 8 to form gemini symbol and sew onto hat

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MAKARA HAT WITH HORNS

Click here for the hat pattern!

ch 24, sl st to form ring

Rows 1-2: sc around (24 st)

Row 3: skip 1 st, 21 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 4: skip 1 st, 19 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 5: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 6: sc around (24 st) TIE OFF

ATTACH ORANGE 3 ST FROM WHERE YOU TIED OFF

Row 7: sc around (24 st)

Row 8: skip 1 st, 21 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 9: skip 1 st, 19 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 10: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 11: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 12: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 13: sc around (24 st) TIE OFF

ATTACH YELLOW 5 ST FROM WHERE YOU LEFT OFF

Row 14: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, 11 sc (22 st)

Row 15: skip 1 st, 19 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 16: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 17: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 18: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 19: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 20: sc around (22 st)

Row 21: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, 10 sc (20 st) TIE OFF

ATTACH YELLOW 4 ST FROM WHERE YOU LEFT OFF

Row 22: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 23: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 24: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 25-27: sc around (20 st)

Row 28: 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc (insert stitch marker here) 16 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 29: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 30: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 31: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 32: sc around (20 st)

Row 33: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, 9 sc (18 st)

Row 34: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 35: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, sc TURN

Row 36: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 37: sc around (18 st)

Row 38: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, 8 sc (16 st)

Row 39: 6 sc, skip 1 st, sc (insert stitch marker here), 12 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 40: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 41: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 42: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 43: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 44: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 45: sc around (16 st)

R0w 46: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st 7 sc (14 st)

Row 47: sc around (14 st)

Row 48: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, 6 sc (12 st)

Row 49: sc around (12 st)

Row 50: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)

Row 51: sc around (10 st)

Row 52: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip1 st, 4 sc (8 st)

Row 53: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, 3 sc (6 st)

Row 54: skip 1 st 2 sc, skip 1 st, 2 sc (4 st) draw closed

Assembly: stuff firmly and sew onto hat

Symbol: chain 10 and sew onto hat as 1st side of n shape, chain 30 and sew on the rest of the n shape and the loopy thing

NITRAM HAT WITH HORNS

Click here for the hat pattern!

I crocheted this hat too loosely so the horns droop a bit, so be careful!

You can adjust this pattern to make longer or thicker or thinner or shorter horns but bigger horns WILL be droopy if you don’t do something besides sewing to hold them up.  I made these small and cute so they would defy gravity.

These are worked in the round (no sl st) so get a stitch marker handy (I like to use a bobby pin)

With RED, ch 25, sl st to form ring, (don’t let the chain get twisted!)

Rows 1-6: sc in each st around (25 st)

SWITCH TO ORANGE

Rows 7-16: sc in each st around (25 st)

SWITCH TO YELLOW

Rows 17-18: sc around (25 st)

Row 19: skip 1 st, 22 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 20: skip 1 st, 20 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 21: skip 1 st , 18 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 22: skip 1 st, 16 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 23: skip 1 st, 14 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 24: skip 1 st, 12 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 25: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 26: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 27: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 28: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, sc, TURN

Row 29: skip 1 st, 2 sc, skip 1 st, sc

Row 30: sc around (25 st) TIE OFF

ATTACH YELLOW 12 ST FROM WHERE YOU TIED OFF

Rows 31-42: repeat rows 19-30

Row 43: skip 1 st, 24 sc (24 st)

Row 44: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, 11 sc (22 st)

Row 45: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, 10 sc (20 st)

Row 46: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, 9 sc (18 st)

Row 47: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, 8 sc (16 st)

Row 48: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, 7 sc (14 st)

Row 49: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, 6 sc (12 st)

Row 50: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)

Row 51: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, 4 sc (8 st)

Row 52: skip 1 st, 2 sc, skip 1 st, 2 sc (6 st)

Row 53: skip 1 st, sc, skip 1 st, sc (4 st) DRAW CLOSED

Assembly: Use tapestry needle to draw tail into horn, stuff completely and sew onto sides of hat.

FOR RUFIOH:

Make some fringe and put it through your stitching like a latch hook rug to make a mohawk!