Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Derse Dreamer Scarf (for tapestry crochet, knitting, and cross-stitch)

Here is the stitch diagram for the Derse Dreamer scarf. Every unit is a single crochet. Keep in mind that since this is asymmetrical, if you are using this for tapestry crochet or knitting you can't read every line from left to right, you need to alternate. I've included arrows to help you figure out which way to read each line.


Start with a chain of 31 and sc in the 2nd chain from hook and then across (each line is 30 sts). I recommend doing maybe 5 or so rows of sc before you start in on the chart. 

Saturday, January 17, 2015

Prospit Dreamer Scarf (for tapestry crochet, knitting, and cross-stitch)

That's right, I am posting a pattern before I even finish the product. Deal with it. Actually, the reason I do this is because the scarf is mainly just simple rows of single crochets, the only thing that requires instructions is the design, which is completed.

I couldn't do Tunisian crochet for this design because either it doesn't work or I just couldn't figure it out. I've only known how to do Tunisian for like a week. One thing I do know, however, is how tapestry crochet works. If you don't, use this helpful tutorial. If you still have questions I would be happy to answer them in the comments section. Now, you may be asking, why is this just called the Prospit scarf? Isn't Derse just the same thing only purple?

No.

I'm doing a completely different design when I get to Derse, which you should expect within a week I hope. The moon will be the same but I was thinking curlicue's instead of the chevron I did with Prospit. I used the shirts from whatpumpkin for inspiration if that helps you see where I am going with this.

Here is the chart, which, incredibly enough, can also be used by knitters or cross-stitchers because stitch charts are just magic that way. Start with a chain of 31 and make your first sc in the second chain from the hook.



An important thing to remember is that this design is NOT symmetrical and is also not worked in the round. This means you can't just read each row left to right like your instincts will tell you because your design will look like a glitchy piece of shit. I know because when I first started making this design I made that same mistake a few times. I have included helpful arrows in the chart so that you don't fuck up like I did. If you knit or cross-stitch you can ignore the arrows. Probably. I think.

I crocheted 5 rows of single crochet in dark yellow before I started on the row where the light yellow begins. I also carried the light yellow right from row one (like the tutorial suggests) so that my gauge stayed nice and even throughout. But seeing as it's your scarf you can do whatever you think looks better.

If anyone is wondering how I made the chart, Microsoft Excel has a graph paper feature and it's pretty handy.

Here's a photo of what it looks like when you've crocheted it (Notice that I made a few small mistakes where I accidentally let the yarn I was carrying peep out a little. Keeping that hidden yarn super taught will make this not happen.)






Thursday, January 15, 2015

Upcoming!

As you know, I have been wanting to make Derse and Prospit dreamer scarves, as well as aspect scarves, but I am very unsatisfied with the way that tapestry crochet looks. I believe that I have found a way to incorporate symbols using Tunisian crochet, in which the scarf will look decent from both the back and the front. I hope. I'll be doing some experimenting but if it doesn't work out I will move back to tapestry style and try to find a way to make cleaner designs.

When all 12 aspects, Prospit, Derse, and a hemospectrum scarf have been completed I will hold a giveaway which will take place both here and on tumblr. One grand prize winner will receive an aspect scarf, one of the dreamer scarves, and the hemospectrum scarf. The second place winner will receive an aspect scarf and the remaining dreamer scarf. 10 runners up will receive an aspect scarf. Here's how the winner will be chosen:

I will divide the contestants into 12 groups, based on aspect (I will collect aspect and dreamer preferences for each contestant). From those 12 groups I will choose 2 winners each, one from Prospit and one from Derse. This brings the contestant pool down to 24. Then, for each of the groups I will flip a coin and one winner from each pair will be chosen. The 12 the come out on top in the coin toss will automatically receive an aspect scarf. From the 12 aspect winners, I will make two groups: one Prospit and one Derse. If I'm lucky it will be an even split but most likely not. I will randomly select one winner from each other groups, and these two will receive a dreamer scarf. Finally, I will set the two dreamer winners against each other in a coin toss. Winner of the toss will receive the hemospectrum scarf. It's like a fucked up tournament of sorts???

It makes sense in my head.

Anyway, I will be posting the patterns for these scarves as I make them and the giveaway will take place when they are done. Last time I did a giveaway it was with the hats and I picked winners before I even made any of them and they took me over a year to complete and the last one didn't get sent because the winner remade their tumblr and I couldn't find them so they could give me an address. This time it will be done properly. The scarf thing is very complicated and I have an intense credit load this semester but I promise I will be slowly but surely working on this.

OOOOOOOH. Maybe I could add Cherub scarves to the mix and make this interesting? The algorithm won't change, but maybe I will pick two runners up that didn't win aspect scarves and give the Cherubs to them? Just a thought.

I will also work on the zodiac designs for scarves but that might have to wait for a second giveawat. Maybe I'll lump the cherubs in with that one.

Sunday, July 27, 2014

NEWS

I have emerged from my long slumber and realized that this blog has been neglected!

So here's the deal, I'm coming back. I'm not sure how long it will take me to get the first project up because I have a lot of non-Homestuck related crochet projects to work on, but here is what you can expect:

-a rewrite of all the horrible horns I made including Serket, Maryam, Ampora, and I'm sure there are others if I look
-More god tier patches
-Captchalogue bags
-scarves???
-amigurumi
-blankets maybe?!?!?
-coffee cozies

The point is that you have not been abandoned and I will try to work on this blog as well as my Crochet Wizard blog. Thanks to all those who have been checking back here for updates, hopefully I'll have something soon!

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

Winterstuck Serkets

I posted this to my other crochet blog, but someone on tumblr mentioned that this pattern would be perfect for making scarves for Serket cosplays (winterstuck Serkets oh gosh). And if you used them to make a shawl you could be momma spider too. Just a thought. Here you go my lovely Serket cosplayers:





Tuesday, August 13, 2013

ZAHHAK HAT WITH HORNS




This pattern is worked in the round so have a stitch marker handy

Broken Horn *made in 2 parts
 Part one-
with red ch 36
Rows 1-5: sc around (36 st)
switch to orange
Rows 6-8: sc around (36 st)
Row 9: sc in next st, *ch 3, sl st in same st, sl st in next st, repeat from * around

Part Two-
with orange, ch 2
Row 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)
Row 3: 1 sc in 1st st, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, repeat from *
Row 4: *1 sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, repeat from *
Stitch disc into broken horn piece to close it, stuff and sew onto hat

Normal Horn *made in 3 parts

Part One-
with red, ch 36
Rows 1-5: sc around (36 st)
Switch to orange
Rows 6-11: sc around (36 st)
Switch to yellow
Rows 12-14: sc around (36 st)

Part Two-
with yellow, ch 2
Row 1: make 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 st)
Row 2: 2 sc in each st around (12 st)
Row 3: *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (18 st)
Row 4: *sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (24 st)
Row 5: *sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (30 st)
Row 6: *sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * (36 st)
Sew disc onto tube to close it (2 rows should hang over the edge)

Part Three-
with yellow, ch 36
Row 1: sc around (36 st)
Row 2: skip 1 st, 17 sc, skip 1 st, 17 sc (34 st)
Row 3: skip 1 st, 16 sc, skip 1 st, 16 sc (32 st)
Row 4: skip 1 st, 15 sc, skip 1 st, 15 sc (30 st)
Row 5: skip 1 st, 14 sc, skip 1 st, 14 sc (28 st)
Row 6: skip 1 st, 13 sc, skip 1 st, 13 sc (26 st)
Row 7: skip 1 st, 12 sc, skip 1 st, 12 sc (24 st)
Row 8: skip 1 st, 11 sc, skip 1 st, 11 sc (22 st)
Row 9: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, 10 sc (20 st)
Row 10: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, 9 sc (18 st)
Row 11: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, 8 sc (16 st)
Row 12: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, 7 sc (14 st)
Row 13: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, 6 sc (12 st)
Row 14: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)
Row 15: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, 4 sc (8 st)
Row 16: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, 3 sc (6 st)
draw closed, stuff and sew onto the disc. Stuff the tube part and sew onto hat

Symbol: ch 10 for stem of arrow, 15 for the point, and 5 for the cross

















Saturday, July 6, 2013

PYROPE HAT WITH HORNS



This pattern is worked in the round so get a stitch marker, like a bobby pin!
with red, chain 24
Row 1: sc in each st around (24 st)
Row 2: skip 1 st, sc in next 11 st, skip 1 st, sc in next 11 st (22 st)
Row 3: sc in each st around (22 st)
Row 4: skip 1 st, 10 sc, skip 1 st, 10 sc (20 st)
Row 5: sc around (20 st)
SWITCH TO ORANGE
Row 6: skip 1 st, 9 sc, skip 1 st, 9 sc (18 st)
Row 7: sc around (18 st)
Row 8: skip 1 st, 8 sc, skip 1 st, 8 sc (16 st)
Row 9: sc around (16 st)
Row 10: skip 1 st, 7 sc, skip 1 st, 7 sc (14 st)
Row 11: sc around (14 st)
SWITCH TO YELLOW
Row 12: skip 1 st, 6 sc, skip 1 st, 6 sc (12 st)
Row 13: sc around (12 st)
Row 14: skip 1 st, 5 sc, skip 1 st, 5 sc (10 st)
Row 15: skip 1 st, 4 sc, skip 1 st, 4 sc (8 st)
Row 16: skip 1 st, 3 sc, skip 1 st, 3 sc (6 st)
Row 17:  skip 1 st, 2 sc, skip 1 st, 2 sc (4 st)
Row 18: sc in every other st around (2 st) 
Draw closed, stuff firmly and sew onto hat
Symbol: chain 10 for the bottom and 15 for the top